Make it Work

This is why I love cooking. With two cooks in the kitchen some things can go wrong. The fun part is dealing with problems and making it work.

Farmers Market Update, July 21st

So this week the market was just crazy. Peter and I hit both the down town market and the one on Sandy Blvd. We're having a dinner party tonight so we did a little west side shopping which included City Market, Whole Foods, Trader Joe's, Sur la Table and both markets. We found some great stuff this week. There were some beautiful tomatoes. Then at the Persephone Farm booth I found some gorgeous radicchio. It would be great cut into wedges and grilled. mmmm. We also found some great squash blossoms. I filled them with goat cheese and fried them in tempura batter. LOVE.

Boccone Estivo

I’m working on a dessert for a big dinner that Peter and I are catering next week. I wanted to make something that would be light, full of fresh summer berries and easy to transport. I’ve decided to take my inspiration from one of my all time favorite cakes. The Boccone Dolce made at Papa Hayden. The cake consist of three layers of swiss meringue drizzled with semi-sweet chocolate, layered with fresh fruit and chantilly cream. The problem with this cake is that it’s very tall and pretty much impossible to cut and serve. Every time I attempt it I end up piling heaps of crushed meringue with fruit and whipped cream on to dessert plates. It’s always delicious, but not very pretty. So my challenge is to reinvent this cake into a gorgeous single serving desert that will profoundly satisfying and have a certain WOW factor.

I think one of the aspects of this desert that is very satisfying is the contrast in textures and flavors that it offers. There is the crisp meringue, then the velvety soft whipped cream and finally tart fresh fruit. I’m going to kick up this contrast between the whipped cream and the fruit. I’m going to add dollops of tart lemon cream along with Marion berry coulis. I think I’ll call it Boccone Estivo, translation: A mouthful of summer. If that’s wrong you can blame my terrible Italian professor in college.

For the lemon cream I’ll use this recipe which I call Ultra Lux Lemon Curd.
This recipe comes from Baking: From My Home to Yours By Dorie Greenspan.

1 C sugar
grated zest of 3 lemons
4 large eggs
¾ C fresh lemon juice
2 sticks plus 5 T unsalted butter, room temperature

Getting Ready: Have an instant-read thermometer, a strainer and a blender (first choice) or food processor at hand. Bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan.
1. Put the sugar and zest in a large heatproof bowl that can be set over the pan of simmering water. Off the heat, rub the sugar and zest together between your fingers until the sugar is moist, grainy and very aromatic. Whisk in the eggs, followed by the lemon juice.
2. Set the bowl over the pan and start stirring with the whisk as soon as the mixture feels tepid to the touch. Cook the lemon cream until it reaches 180 degrees F. As you whisk—you must whisk constantly to keep the eggs from scrambling—you'll see that the cream will start out light and foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger, and then, as it gets closer to 180 degrees F, it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks. Heads up at this point—the tracks mean the cream is almost ready. Don't stop whisking or checking the temperature, and have patience—depending on how much heat you're giving the cream, getting to temp can take as long as 10 minutes.
3. As soon as it reaches 180 degrees F. remove the cream from the heat and strain it into the container of the blender (or food processor); discard the zest. Let the cream stand, stirring occasionally, until it cools to 140 degrees F, about 10 minutes.
4. Turn the blender to high (or turn on the processor) and, with the machine going, add the butter about 5 pieces at a time. Scrape down the sides of the container as needed as you incorporate the butter. Once the butter is in, keep the machine going—to get the perfect light, airy texture of lemon-cream dreams, you must continue to blend the cream for another 3 minutes. If your machine protests and gets a bit too hot, work in 1-minute intervals, giving the machine a little rest between beats.
5. Pour the cream into a container, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to create an airtight seal and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. (The cream will keep in the fridge for 4 days or, tightly sealed, in the freezer for up to 2 months; thaw it overnight in the refrigerator.)

Making Fresh Pasta

One of life's great miracles is fresh pasta. The secret is that it's actually very easy to make. When I was working at a restaurant, I learned a little secret that not a lot of chefs who make pasta in a restaurant ever tell you: it's not necessary to knead the dough if you let your food processor do it for you. You'll need a good quality food processor, a pasta rolling machine, and a little trial and error.

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour (substitute semolina if you have it)
3 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1 T exra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
cold water

Add flour to food processor. Pulse 2-3 times to break up lumps. Add eggs, yolks, olive oil and salt and turn processor on. Let process for about 60-90 seconds until the mixture looks like corn meal.

Slowly drizzle in cold water until dough pulls away from side of processor. Knead 1-2 minutes on a floured surface until the dough comes together.

Form into a ball, wrap in parchment paper or plastic wrap and rest in refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Note: this is the time to make your sauce. When the sauce is done, it's time to roll out the dough. Also make sure to have a large pasta pot coming to the boil by this point. The pasta only has to boil for about a minute, so it goes fast when the noodles are ready!

Set up your pasta machine. Cut pasta dough into fourths. Re-wrap three so they won't dry out.

Flatten piece to be rolled, and pass through pasta machine on widest setting.

Fold in thirds, pass through again. Fold in thirds again and pass through a third time. Next, run sheet through each successive thinner setting once until you reach the thinnest level.

Cut the pasta to desired shape, or use sheets for ravioli. If the pasta sheet is sticky, lay over the back of two chairs or a standing laundry rack for about 30 minutes to dry out. Dough can be frozen for up to a week or in the fridge for a couple of days. You can also cut your pasta, form into nests, and freeze on a sheet pan wrapped in a double layer of plastic wrap for a couple of weeks.


Tip: roll the pasta in corn meal to discourage sticking while you are cutting and form into nests on a sheet pan. When you boil it, the corn meal just settles to the bottom of the pan.

To incorporate into sauce, put pasta into a salted, boiling pot of water. Cover to return to boil, remove after 1-2 minutes or until just under al dente. Drain, add to sauce and cook until done, adding ladles of pasta water if the sauce is too tight. Garnish with fresh herbs and grated cheese.

Creamy Dreamy Ravioli

I was recently watching Lidia's Family Table, my current Italian obsession television show on OPB. She made this pasta, and I had to make it right away. Lidia Bastianich has made a name for herself in the New York food scene by preparing authentic Italian fare in a way that is accessible to home cooks. The following ravioli recipe exalts in its simplicity. Ricotta, pasta, butter, and sage is all you need.

When I worked at clarklewis, they called this simple butter sauce creamy dreamy, and it truly is. The trick is to use pasta water, with all its wonderful starchy liquid, to emulsify the butter just prior to serving. You need a really good quality, heavy-bottomed pan to achieve the right level of heat to pull it off.

There's really no substitute for home made pasta, because it really is just as easy as using dried pasta. And it's better. You'll never go back.

1 recipe home made pasta, rolled into large sheets

1 16 oz. container whole milk ricotta

1 sprig fresh sage

1 egg

1 stick butter

extra virgin olive oil

grated Parmesano reggiano

salt and pepper

Add about a teaspoon of kosher salt to the ricotta and stir with a fork until combined. You could add some fresh herbs, chunks of fresh mozzarella, or anything to supplement the stuffing. Lay out one sheet of pasta, add generous tablespoons of cheese, spacing a few inches apart.

Paint a little egg wash along the edge and between the cheese. Crack some black pepper on filling and drizzle with a little olive oil. Cover with another sheet, and cut with pastry cutter to seal the seams. According to Lidia, don't push the air out of the ravioli, it helps make it floppy when you make the sauce and gives the ravioli nice crevices for the sauce to adhere to the pasta.

Bring a large pot of water to boil, season with 1/4 c. kosher salt per gallon. When the water is boiling, heat another heavy bottomed skillet to medium high. Add butter, swirling to melt, but don't let it brown. While the butter is melting, add the ravioli to the pasta water and stir.



When the butter is melted and beginning to bubble, add a ladleful or two of the pasta water, add sage, and turn heat to high. Let boil vigorously until the ravioli is just before al dente, about 90 seconds. Scoop ravioli out to skillet with a large spoon. It's okay if water comes with, it'll just help the sauce thicken more.



When all of the raviolis are in the skillet, vigorously shake pan back and forth to stir the sauce and allow to come up over edges of ravioli, about 30 seconds. Remove sage, add about 1/2 cup grated cheese and shake again. Remove ravioli to plates. Put sauce back on heat to thicken if needed, adding more pasta water if you want to loosen the sauce. You want it to be incorporated and silky, but not too watery. Ladle sauce over ravioli, crack some more pepper, season with salt and top with more cheese. YUM!

Farmers Market Update

Every Saturday morning I like to get up early and have a cup of coffee and head of to the Portland Farmers Market. I try to get there right at 8am before it gets crowded. This gives me a chance to talk to the venders about what’s new that week. As spring and summer progress it’s fun to watch certain venders come and go depending on what’s available. This week was one of the weeks when we see a lot of new faces as we start to see the arrival of some serious fruits and vegetables. This week Blue Berries really hit their prime and I saw Marion Berries first time this summer.

I came across a new vender this week called Two Tarts artisan sweets for the soul. They had a beautiful display of mini cookies. They don’t have a permanent retail space yet, but they are looking for a location. Right now they sell their goods through Pasta works or City Market and the farmers market. You can also call and place orders. Their mini cookies are perfect for any party or reception. I got a baker’s dozen for $6. I got a good mix to sample: Chocolate chip, Coconut Oatmeal, Peanut butter and my favorite Lavender Shortbread.
To order call Two Tarts, Elizabeth Beekley 503 910 6694

About Vinaigrettes

As you can see with the vinaigrette recipes below, there's a basic method you can vary for whatever you feel like making. There are many vinegars out there, and you can adjust the herbs to pair with your desired theme. For a french flair, use herbs de provence. For italian, use italian herbs. If you have leftover fresh herbs, by all means!

Here's a basic recipe for vinaigrette, adjust to you liking.

1/4 c. vinegar
1 T dijon mustard
1 T minced shallot
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
1 tsp. dried or fresh herbs
1 T honey
3/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

The mustard acts to emulsify the dressing, preventing the oil and vinegar from separating. This recipe has a nice balance of salty, sweet and acidic flavors. The goal of a vinaigrette is, when you taste it, the acid of the vinegar tickles the back of your throat but doesn't make your mouth pucker!

Supplement the vinegar with citrus juices to brighten the dressing. If something seems to be missing, it probably needs more salt. To sweeten the dressing more (especially when using very bitter lettuces), add a little concentrated fruit juice puree, which will help balance the bitterness of greens like endive, frisee, escarole, arugula or raddicchio.

The Country Cat makes the Rotation

Who would have thought that right off 82nd and Stark lurked a new up-and-coming restaurant row? Flying Pie Pizza has been churning pizza piled high with toppings and a toothsome crust for years on this hidden street in the shadow of Mount Tabor. Enter the Country Cat, a charming "dinnerhouse bar". While Keith was smitten with the chef, who was bouncing around the well-appointed and laid-back dining room in overalls, Nick and Peter enjoyed the view from the best seat in the house, an oversize table in the glass corner of the restaurant.

A mountain of thin-thin-thin onion rings accompanies a house-butchered burger (with house-made ketchup that admittedly left something to be desired). The burger is over all good, and the onion rings are addictive.


One of the house specialties is the whole hog, with rolled belly, brined chop & smoked shoulder. Keith liked the yummy sweet beans, which as is turns out are actually Bing cherries.


Things are pretty dialed in for a new restaurant, but with time the kinks (such as slightly underseasoned meat) will be worked out. We saw country ham and prosciutto curing in the cooler behind the bar, which our knowledgeable server says will be ready come Christmas. Speaking of service, it was unpretentious and attentive (our barometer is if we are asked if we need another drink before the current one is gone). Check it out!

The Country Cat
7937 SE Stark
Portland, OR 97215
503-408-1414
www.thecountrycat.net

Endive Salad with Blue Cheese, Walnuts and Champagne Vinaigrette

I can't get over the magic of bitter greens. When paired with a bright, acidic vinaigrette, walnuts and funky, creamy blue cheese, this salad sings. Use any blue cheese you want, but Point Reyes Blue Cheese, if you can find it, evokes the wonderful terroir of Northern California.

1 lbs. belgian endive
1 lb. mixed greens
1 c. roasted walnuts
1/2 lb. crumbled Point Reyes blue cheese
1/4 c. champagne vinegar
1 T dijon mustard
1 t minced shallot
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
1 tsp. herbs de provence
1 T honey
3/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Cut root end off endives and separate leaves. Roast walnuts in oven at 350 degrees until toasted but not burned. Watch them, they burn fast! In a blender, combine vinegar, mustard, shallot, crushed pepper, garlic, herbs de provence and honey. On high speed, add olive oil until combined, adding splashes of cold water if it gets too tight. Add salt and pepper to taste. In a large bowl, season endive and greens with a little salt, add just enough vinaigrette to coat, and toss. Pile on a platter, arrange walnuts and cheese on top and grind a little black pepper to taste.

Green Bean Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Fried Shallots

This salad is the essence of summer. Bright green beans, plump cherry tomatoes and crunchy fried shallots shine in their simplicity. Use different colored tomatoes to give this salad a colorful flair.

2 lbs. blue lake green beans, cleaned and stems removed
1 lb. cherry tomatoes
1/2 lb. shallots
canola oil for frying
1/4 c. sherry vinegar
1 tsp. dijon mustard
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
1/2 tsp. dried italian herbs
2 T honey
3/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Blanch green beans in plenty of salted water until crisp-tender, 1-2 minutes. Remove to ice water to shock and set color. Drain and set aside. Peel and cut shallots in half, then slice thin. Set aside about a tablespoon for vinaigrette. Heat canola oil to 350 degrees, and fry shallots in batches, taking care not to overload. Fry until golden brown, drain on paper bag and season with salt. Cut cherry tomatoes in half and set aside.

For vinaigrette: Combine vinegar, garlic, reserved shallot, crushed pepper, herbs, honey and mustard in a blender. Blend and slowly add olive oil until incorporated, adding a little cold water if it gets too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toss beans and tomatoes with vinaigreet and a little salt and pepper to taste. Pile high on a platter and garnish with the fried shallots.

It's mind blowingly good

So enough praise has been heaped on Apizza Scholls, but you know what, it is just mind blowingly good.

Nick, Peter and I have a routine when we eat there. We ALWAYS order the same thing. We get the Tartufo Bianco and the Amanda’s Amore. It’s the perfect combo. They are so good I can’t even put it into words. In fact I’m often moved to doing the happy dance it’s so good.
I’m trying to post about it now, but we just got back and I’m in a pizza coma right now.

Got lemons? Make lemon salt.

Lemon salt is a great finishing salt. It can be used on just about anything. The lemon zest gives a bright zingy note to the salt. It’s perfect on seafood, chicken or even salting the rim of a cocktail. Get creative and add different herbs.

Lemon Salt.

1 C kosher salt
6 lemons zested

In a food processor pulse together the salt and lemon zest. Spread the salt out in a thin layer on a sheet pan. Dry the salt blend in the oven at 175 for 45 minutes. Store in a air tight container.